FIRST AID refers to the initial steps taken by you, in an emergency situation, prior to reaching health care professionals. These steps can prevent injuries from worsening, alleviate pain, or even save your animal's life.
The following recommendations are given only as guidelines and should be used along with good judgment, depending on the specific circumstances involved. Familiarize yourself with the basics in this first aid material before an actual emergency situation arises. Be sure to have your veterinarian's office phone number readily available at all times, preferably placed by the phone with other emergency numbers like those of the fire department, police, and your physician.
In case of an emergency, notify your vet's office that you are on your way with an injured animal. Describe the nature of the problem to the receptionist so that they can prepare for your arrival; this may greatly improve the outcome in the case of a medical emergency.
A word of warning- When in pain or frightened, even a well-loved and trusted pet can become frantic and may bite while being helped. Always approach with care, and if transporting or helping your pet is deemed necessary, please take appropriate precautions like muzzling. A temporary muzzle may be fashioned from an old neck tie, scarf, piece of rope, or pantyhose. Please feel free to ask any member of your vet's staff about the correct manner in which to apply a temporary muzzle so you will be prepared if the need arises.
Any time an injured animal is moved (carried), it should be done in such a way as to minimize any further trauma or pain. The best way to transport an injured animal is to fashion a gurney or sling from a piece of plywood, towel, blanket, or box. These techniques are best (safest) when performed with two or more people.
External bleeding caused by cuts or wounds can be slowed or even stopped by applying pressure to the areas. This is best done with a clean rag or gauze. The rag or gauze is placed over the area, and then a snug bandage is applied. If swelling of the area below the wound is noticed (a sign of reduced circulation), you must loosen or remove the bandage. If no bandage materials are available, place your hand over the area and apply firm pressure.
If the bleeding is very fast or excessive, an artery may have been severed or punctured. In these circumstances direct pressure may be of no benefit; therefore, a tourniquet and direct pressure may need to be applied. When applying any tourniquet always proceed with caution. (An incorrectly applied tourniquet may do more harm than good.) The tourniquet should be placed between the injury and the heart. It should be gently, but firmly, tightened to the extent that bleeding is visibly decreased. You should be able to insert an index finger between the tourniquet and the skin. It is important that the tourniquet be loosened every ten minutes or so to allow some blood to enter the extremity.
Internal bleeding is much more difficult to detect and treat; therefore, if this is suspected please contact your veterinarian's office as soon as possible.
Fractures may or may not be easy to detect; the affected limb may be held or carried in an unnatural position, or in some cases the bone itself may actually be visible through the skin. If no bleeding is evident, then the only steps necessary are to transport the pet to your veterinarian's office for evaluation and treatment (refer to the paragraph on Transporting). Be sure to let us know if the bone fragments were visualized through the skin.
Fish hooks often become lodged in the legs, paws, and mouth of animals. The only way to remove hooks is to push them through the skin until the barb emerges. The barbed section is then clipped off and the remaining portion is retracted through the initial entrance wound. If the hook is around the face or paws, sedation is usually required for this procedure. If a lure with multiple hooks is involved, you should cover the free hooks with a towel or cut them off before attempting to transport your pet.
If a baited hook is swallowed and the line is dangling from the animal's mouth, do not attempt to pull on the line to remove the hook. The best approach is to cut the line as short as possible and immediately proceed to your veterinarian's office.
Poisons fall into several different classes; each is treated in a slightly different manner. Therefore, it is important to know what the ingested product is when contacting your veterinarian's office for assistance.
Insecticides are one of the most common agents seen in animal poisonings. Poisonings may range from over-administration of flea products to actual ingestion by the animal. In any case it is important to know the active ingredient in the product; some insecticides may be reversed with certain drugs. Always read the labels and use these products appropriately.
Rat poisons are another common product frequently ingested by pets. If the animal was seen ingesting the product or if it has been less than 30 minutes, induction of vomiting is the best first aid treatment to be done. Vomiting can be induced by administering hydrogen peroxide orally to your pet (1 tablespoon every five minutes until vomiting occurs). Contact your veterinarian's office for further treatment recommendations.
Also see ORGANOPHOSPHATE AND CARBAMATE POISONING
Acids, alkalis and petroleum products necessitate special consideration when ingested. Induction of vomiting is contraindicated with these toxicants. Some general rules to follow are:
Antifreeze is another substance which is very toxic
to pets. It causes severe kidney damage and possible death after
ingestion. If antifreeze ingestion has occurred, please contact
your veterinarian's office immediately.
For more detailed information about Antifreeze Poisoning and Treatments, see ANTIFREEZE POISONING.
If you have questions regarding the possibility of a plant or weed being toxic to you or your pet, please refer to the informational handout of toxic plants and weeds.
Paint, tar or grease often can come in contact with household pets. Never try to remove these products with gasoline or turpentine. Vegetable oil or WD-40 may be used to remove tar and grease. This is followed with a bath using gentle soap.
Heatstroke is usually brought about by one of the following situations: confining dogs in a car during the summer, kenneling dogs in poorly ventilated areas, or exercising dogs heavily during hot, humid weather.
The classic signs of heatstroke are rapid shallow breathing, rapid heart beat, very high body temperature (above 104 degrees), and collapse. The most important step in first aid for an animal suspected of heatstroke is to reduce the body temperature. The best way to achieve this is by spraying him/her with cool water, or wrapping him/her in cool wet towels. Contact your veterinarian's office immediately.
Always provide shade, adequate ventilation, and plenty of fresh, cool water during the hot summer months of the year.
This list by no means includes all of the emergencies that household pets may encounter. We hope this information, in conjunction with common sense and good judgment, will help you with any potential emergencies in the future.
We hope that you will find this information helpful in your quest for better pet care. If you have any questions or comments, please call your veterinarian's office, or feel free to e-mail us.
David E. Hammett, DVM
and the Staff of All Creatures Veterinary Clinic, PC
